The US Navy used to own about 22,000 out of the 33,000 acres on the island. Even though they recently released a lot of the land for public use, there remain several restricted areas. It was with a leery eye with which I anxiously explored down the roads that said, “Danger, Unexplored Ordinance.”

I knew I was staying in a bad part of the island when my hotel directions said, “Turn left at the hidden land mine and keep going straight for 2 miles when your Geiger counter explodes.”